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හැමෝටම උඩින් ගිහින් මැච් එක බලන අමුත්තා ගැන නොදන්න දේ

 

ක‍්‍රීඩා විකාශන නිෂ්පාදනය කියන්නේ අද කාලයේ ඇති වඩාත් විහිදී ගිය තාක්ෂණික ක‍්‍රම ශිල්ප භාවිත වන විෂය පථයක්. නූතනය වන විට බිහිවී ඇති තරඟකාරී පරිසරයත් එක්ක ක‍්‍රීඩා විකාශන නිෂ්පාදන ආයතන (Sports Broadcasting Production Companies) දවසින් දවස නව සංකල්ප හා නිපැයුම් පිළිබඳව වඩාත් සැලකිල්ලක් දක්වනවා. එ් මොකද කියනවා නම් පේ‍්‍රක්ෂක ඉල්ලුම වැඩි කරගන්න නම් මොනයම් හෝ අලුත් අත්දැකීමක් ලබා දෙන්නට එ් එ් ආයතනවලට ඉතා වැදගත් වන නිසායි. ඒ විදිහට ක‍්‍රීඩා විචාරකයන්ටත් පේ‍්‍රක්ෂකයාටත් නැවුම් අත්දැකීමක් ලබාදීමේ අරමුණින් තමයි SPIDERCAM නැමැති උඩුගුවනේ ගමන් කරමින් රූපරාමු ලබා දෙන කැමරාව නිර්මාණය කර තිබෙන්නේ. මේ ලිපියෙන් අපි කතා කරන්නේ මේ කියන කැමරාව සඳහා යොදා ගන්නා තාක්ෂණික උපායන් ගැන.

SPIDERCAM හී නිපැයුම් පසුබිම

SPIDERCAM කියන්නේ ඇත්ත වශයෙන්ම වෙළඳ නාමයක්. මෙවැනි උඩු ගුවනේ සිට කැමරාකරණය කළ හැකි උපාංගයක් පළමුවෙන්ම අත්හදා බැලුනේ ඇමරිකාවේ 1984 දී SKYCAM නැමැති උපාංගයක් මගින්. එ් වුණත් අද වන විට ලෝකයේ බහුලවම භාවිත වන SPIDERCAM උපාංගය නිර්මාණය කරනු ලැබුවේ පරිගණක සහ ප්ලාස්ටික් පිළිබඳ විශේෂ හැකියාවක් ඇති ජර්මන් ජාතික ඉංජිනේරුවෙකු වන Jens Peters විසින්. ඔහු විසින් 2000 වසරේ ආරම්භ කරන ලද ඔස්ටේ‍්‍රලියානු ආයතනයක් හරහා මෙම උපාංගයේ වැඩිදියුණු කිරීම් සිදුකරනු ලැබුවා. 2003 වසරේදී සම්පූර්ණ ලෙස අත්හදා බැලීම් සිදුකළ මෙම උපාංගය 2004 වසරේ සිට වාණිජ මට්ටමින් යොදා විකාශන කටයුතු සඳහා යොදා ගැනුණා. ක‍්‍රිකට් කී‍්‍රඩාව සඳහා මෙය පළමුවරට 2010 වසරේ ඉන්දියාවේදී විකාශන කටයුතු සඳහා යොදා ගනු ලැබුවා.

 

SPIDERCAM හී සැකැස්ම

මෙය විශේෂ තන්තු (cables) 4ක් යොදා ගනිමින් ති‍්‍රමාණ තලයක් ඔස්සේ චලනය කරවිය හැකි කැමරාවක්. Cables සියල්ල සම්බන්ධ වෙන්නේ කැමරාව රැගෙන යන ආධාරකය (Dolly) ටයි. එය මත අචලව ස්ථානගත කොට ඇති කැමරාව මගින් සාමාන්‍ය කැමරාවක සිදුකෙරෙන කාර්යයන්  (Focusing, Panning, Tilting, Zooming) සියල්ල සිදුකෙරෙනවා. කැමරාව දුරස්ථපාලක මගින් හැසිරවිය හැකි අතර හසුරවන්නන් දෙදෙනෙකු එකවර යොදා ගැනෙනවා. එක් අයෙකු කැමරාවේ චලන සිදුකරන අතර අනෙක් තැනැත්තා විසින් එහි කැමරාකරණ මෙහෙයුම් (Camera Operations) සිදුකෙරෙනවා. දුරස්ථපාලක වලින් ලබාදෙන signals වලට අනුරූපව කැමරාව ස්ථානගත කිරීම සඳහා cables වල අනෙක් කෙලවර මෝටර් හතරකට (motorized winches) සම්බන්ධ කර තිබෙනවා. එක් එක් මෝටර් මගින් cables හැකිලීම හෝ දිගහැරීම හරහා එ්වායේ දිග වෙනස් කර කැමරාව චලනය කෙරෙනවා. cables මගින් කැමරාව දරා සිටීමට අමතරව signal transfer කිරීම සඳහා Fiber Optics cables ඇතුලත් කර තිබෙනවා. එම Fiber Optics cables මගින් කැමරාවේ දර්ශන යැවීම සහ කැමරාවේ හැසිරවීම් සඳහා අවශ්‍ය උපදෙස් යැවීම සිදු කෙරෙනවා. මීට අමතරව කැමරාව සෑම විටම සමබරව තබා ගැනීමට හැකිවන පරිදි සංවේදකයක් (gyro sensor) කැමරාව රැගෙනයන dolly එකට සවිකර තිබෙනවා. ක‍්‍රීඩා පිටියේ කෙලවරක මෙය හසුරවන නියමුවන් දෙදෙනා සහිත පාලන කුටිය පිහිටුවන අතර එය සම්ප්‍රේෂණාගාරයට සෘජුවම සම්බන්ධකර සාමාන්‍ය කැමරාවකින් දර්ශන ලබාදෙන පරිදිම දර්ශන යැවීම සිදු කෙරෙනවා.

 

 

අභියෝග

සමාන්‍ය කැමරාවකට ලබාදිය නොහැකි අපුර්ව දර්ශන රාමු ගෙනදෙන්නට මෙම උපාංගයට හැකි වුණා. සමහර අවස්ථාවල තෙවැනි විනිසුරු ලබා දීමට පවා මෙයින් ලබා ගන්නා පුනරූපන යොදා ගත්තා. බොහෝ විට පරිගණක ක‍්‍රීඩාවලදී අපි විඳින රසවින්දනයට ආසන්න රසවින්දනයක් ලබා දෙමින් නරඹන්නන් ක‍්‍රීඩා පිටිය තුළ සිට ක‍්‍රීඩකයන් සමග තරගයේ සිටින ආකාරයේ අත්දැකීමක් ලබා දෙන්න SPIDERCAM ට හැකියාව ලැබුණා. රූපවාහිනී පේ‍්‍රක්ෂකයන් නම් මෙය බෙහෙවින් අගය කළත් ක‍්‍රීඩකයන් සහ කි‍්‍රඩා පිටියේ සිට තරගය නරඹන්නන් නම් මේ සඳහා එතරම් කැමැත්තක් දක්වන්නේ නැහැ. හැමදෙනෙක්ම එසේ අප‍්‍රසාදය පළ නොකළත් ඇතැමුන් නම් මෙය තරගයට බාධාකරන කරදරකාරී දෙයක් හැටියට දෝෂ දර්ශනයට ලක් කරනවා. තරගවලදී ඇත්තෙන්ම මෙම උපාංගය නිසා බාධා වුණු අවස්ථාද නැතුවම නෙවෙයි. ක‍්‍රිකට් තරගවලදී මෙහි පන්දු ගැටීම නිසා බධා වුණු අවස්ථා ගණනාවක්ම තිබෙනවා. කොහොම නමුත් මේ සියලූ ගැටලූ පිළිබඳව සලකා බැලෙන නිසා නිෂ්පාදකයින් තවදුරටත් මෙය වැඩිදියුණු කර වඩා යහපත් සේවයක් ලබා දීමට මතු දිනෙක හැකිවනු ඇත.

Thoughts on buying a camera

“What camera should I buy?” is a question I get asked a lot. The problem here is, most people ask expecting an answer including an SLR. If I catered to that, I should be answering “The most expensive one you can afford”.

But I don’t do that. I just try to help people. So the first question I ask is, what do you want to do with it? This question is usually met with an array of blank looks. Or maybe a “To take pictures, duh!” kind of response.

Of course, the main reason is, people think the SLR is a camera. This is a technical misconception. The SLR is designed to be a System.

A step above we find Medium Format cameras, which is even more so. Let me simplify. The pure SLR buy is a body only. You can’t do anything with that. Its like a car without tires. You need to accessorise. First and foremost, a lens. Just like a car’s tires, this comes in many, many configurations. Do you need road tires, off-road tires, snow tires, studs or chains, what width, what tire profile, wet weather optimised or dry weather optimised, racing slicks, semi grooved racing tires? With a lens, zoom or prime, zoom range, aperture, macro capability, tilt shift ability, focus motor, weather sealing? General purpose do-it-all or specialized? And this is just the first accessory of the System! This is why it is so important to get the “what do you want to do with it” question right.

Most people are surprised when they ask me and I tell them to get a point and shoot. My reasoning is quite simple. If your photography is at a simple curious clicking stage and you haven’t figured out what you want to do, a point and shoot is where you can figure that out without making a very expensive mistake. A P&S is an all round package, vs a specialist system. I’ve said it before, in ideal conditions, a good high end P&S can outperform a basic DSLR with a base level lens. I know it, as I have lived it, when I upgraded to my DSLR, I used to use both my P&S and DSLR at the same time, and the results can be astonishing. The DSLR starts coming into its own when the conditions start getting difficult, and the more expensive DSLRs start proving their worth as things get even more difficult, but for what most people want, memories to share on Facebook and Instagram, its really not worth it.
Want to see the proof? These are three of my favourite pictures, all taken with a P&S –
Blue-Tailed Bee Eater
The Sentinel
Reflections

The issue, as I see it, is that most people want a camera as a status symbol, more of way to show people your wealth than anything actually to do with taking pictures. In that case, yes, please, buy the most expensive system you can find, and help fund the R&D cost for the developing line and help bring down the cost for the rest of us.

And besides, it can be generalised that most people want cameras mostly for taking pics of far off wildlife during trips, or to take pictures of people at weddings. That whole market of people who want a camera to take pictures of themselves in the mirror have pretty much moved to camera phones. Both of these options can be very expensive. When it comes to wildlife, there is no getting around the fact that a decent zoom lens to capture far away creatures will be costly. Weddings, even a normal lens will do, with even entry DSLRs able to shoot high ISOs that even pro photographers from just 20 years ago would be just jealous of. But naturally, the more image quality becomes important, the more expensive it gets.

My advice is, unless you want to get into the subject at least a little seriously, by which I mean be willing to learn enough that you don’t buy and SLR and use it only in auto mode, its better to chose a P&S. My general recommendations are to either pick one of the Superzooms (some people refer to it as bridge cameras, or SLR-like, because of the shape), or a toughened P&S, the waterproof, dustproof, shockproof ranges, which will let you take pictures underwater. Reasoning in simple. You will get shots that your friends with more money than sense who bought an SLR purely to show off will not be able to get, at least not without spending a great deal of money. To match the superzoom P&S range, you need to spend well over $10,000. The Canon SX50 can reach 1200mm in SLR terms. The Canon EF 1200mm SLR lens alone costs around $100,000 and is only made to order, and while the exact number made is not know, its supposed to be about 10. And that is stuck on one length, you can only take pictures of people about a mile away, while the SX50 will happily zoom out to take a picture of 25 people trying to pose for a group picture at a wedding.

Taking your very expensive SLR underwater requires a waterproof casing that will cost at least $2000, while a smarter person will happily click away underwater with a ~$300 P&S. And THE most important thing, the best shots you take are taken with the camera that is with you. You can buy a very expensive DSLR setup, but when it reaches the point that you need to be built like Arnold Schwarzenegger in his prime to carry it around for more than ½ an hour, you simply leave it at home, and miss all the wonderful opportunities that people are happily clicking away with their $100-$400 P&Ss. One of my friends, a full time professional photographer recently picked up a waterproof point and shoot to take with him when going on casual trips like to Unawatuna and Hikkaduwa, where he can drop it, get it wet, get sloshed and party in peace without worrying about having to take care of his expensive SLR gear. And I think the time is not far off when I will do the same.“What camera should I buy?” is a question I get asked a lot. The problem here is, most people ask expecting an answer including an SLR. If I catered to that, I should be answering “The most expensive one you can afford”.

But I don’t do that. I just try to help people. So the first question I ask is, what do you want to do with it? This question is usually met with an array of blank looks. Or maybe a “To take pictures, duh!” kind of response.

Of course, the main reason is, people think the SLR is a camera. This is a technical misconception. The SLR is designed to be a System. A step above we find Medium Format cameras, which is even more so. Let me simplify. The pure SLR buy is a body only. You can’t do anything with that. Its like a car without tires. You need to accessorise. First and foremost, a lens. Just like a car’s tires, this comes in many, many configurations. Do you need road tires, off-road tires, snow tires, studs or chains, what width, what tire profile, wet weather optimised or dry weather optimised, racing slicks, semi grooved racing tires? With a lens, zoom or prime, zoom range, aperture, macro capability, tilt shift ability, focus motor, weather sealing? General purpose do-it-all or specialized? And this is just the first accessory of the System! This is why it is so important to get the “what do you want to do with it” question right.

Most people are surprised when they ask me and I tell them to get a point and shoot. My reasoning is quite simple. If your photography is at a simple curious clicking stage and you haven’t figured out what you want to do, a point and shoot is where you can figure that out without making a very expensive mistake. A P&S is an all round package, vs a specialist system. I’ve said it before, in ideal conditions, a good high end P&S can outperform a basic DSLR with a base level lens. I know it, as I have lived it, when I upgraded to my DSLR, I used to use both my P&S and DSLR at the same time, and the results can be astonishing. The DSLR starts coming into its own when the conditions start getting difficult, and the more expensive DSLRs start proving their worth as things get even more difficult, but for what most people want, memories to share on Facebook and Instagram, its really not worth it.
Want to see the proof? These are three of my favourite pictures, all taken with a P&S –
Blue-Tailed Bee Eater
The Sentinel
Reflections

The issue, as I see it, is that most people want a camera as a status symbol, more of way to show people your wealth than anything actually to do with taking pictures. In that case, yes, please, buy the most expensive system you can find, and help fund the R&D cost for the developing line and help bring down the cost for the rest of us.

And besides, it can be generalised that most people want cameras mostly for taking pics of far off wildlife during trips, or to take pictures of people at weddings. That whole market of people who want a camera to take pictures of themselves in the mirror have pretty much moved to camera phones. Both of these options can be very expensive. When it comes to wildlife, there is no getting around the fact that a decent zoom lens to capture far away creatures will be costly. Weddings, even a normal lens will do, with even entry DSLRs able to shoot high ISOs that even pro photographers from just 20 years ago would be just jealous of. But naturally, the more image quality becomes important, the more expensive it gets.

My advice is, unless you want to get into the subject at least a little seriously, by which I mean be willing to learn enough that you don’t buy and SLR and use it only in auto mode, its better to chose a P&S. My general recommendations are to either pick one of the Superzooms (some people refer to it as bridge cameras, or SLR-like, because of the shape), or a toughened P&S, the waterproof, dustproof, shockproof ranges, which will let you take pictures underwater. Reasoning in simple. You will get shots that your friends with more money than sense who bought an SLR purely to show off will not be able to get, at least not without spending a great deal of money. To match the superzoom P&S range, you need to spend well over $10,000. The Canon SX50 can reach 1200mm in SLR terms. The Canon EF 1200mm SLR lens alone costs around $100,000 and is only made to order, and while the exact number made is not know, its supposed to be about 10. And that is stuck on one length, you can only take pictures of people about a mile away, while the SX50 will happily zoom out to take a picture of 25 people trying to pose for a group picture at a wedding.

Taking your very expensive SLR underwater requires a waterproof casing that will cost at least $2000, while a smarter person will happily click away underwater with a ~$300 P&S. And THE most important thing, the best shots you take are taken with the camera that is with you. You can buy a very expensive DSLR setup, but when it reaches the point that you need to be built like Arnold Schwarzenegger in his prime to carry it around for more than ½ an hour, you simply leave it at home, and miss all the wonderful opportunities that people are happily clicking away with their $100-$400 P&Ss. One of my friends, a full time professional photographer recently picked up a waterproof point and shoot to take with him when going on casual trips like to Unawatuna and Hikkaduwa, where he can drop it, get it wet, get sloshed and party in peace without worrying about having to take care of his expensive SLR gear. And I think the time is not far off when I will do the same.

Samsung Galaxy Camera in focus

The Samsung Galaxy Camera is an interesting product. It’s not a particularly revolutionary device, by which I mean, its not going to claim first to market on its head line features. It is not the first Android powered pure camera (Nikon holds that title) and its also not the first pure camera with wifi/wireless data connectivity. Even Samsung has several models in its stable with wifi connectivity. It is probably the first camera to feature 3G/4G connectivity on board, but phone cameras have been doing that for years. There are also plenty of cameras on the market with GPS sensors onboard.

What the Galaxy Camera does have is a compelling mix of features. Android as an Operating System has a pretty powerful set of applications for image editing, such as Photoshop Touch. Samsung already has experience in this arena, Photoshop Touch is one of the pre-loaded apps on the Galaxy Note 10, which is a pretty formidable mobile editing platform with its 10 inch screen and S-Pen, which has Wacom technology.

Galaxy Camera Editing

The device on the Hardware side is pretty much equivalent to the Galaxy SIII, using the same screens, CPUs and graphics processors. What this means in real world terms, is that any software development on the SIII (currently Samsung’s flagship, so commanding the maximum support from Samsung’s development resources) will technically be portable to the Camera with little effort. So it should be in line for updates right at the top of the tree. It beats the Nikon S800C Android camera in having Android 4 on board as shipped, compared to the Nikon’s 2.3 Gingerbread flavour.

On the Camera side, the sensor used is larger than a standard phone camera sensor, the lens is pretty decent with a f2.8 aperture at its widest, and covering a zoom range that covers the 35mm equivalent of 23mm to well over 400mm. This is a lot more than what was classed as superzoom compacts just a few short years ago. (Not currently, Canon’s current superzoom is a 50x zoom, 24-1200mm equivalent). The camera controls offer a decent amount of manual control. It has some innovative smart modes which will makes things easier for photo enthusiasts who want a certain effect, but don’t know manual controls get that effect manually.

Along with the good, there is a couple of bad. First up, lag. Rather than a snappy response, the camera app is reported to be a bit on the slow side. Now, this might be no worse than many of the current crop of point and shoot cameras, but this is what we have from the reviews. The other issue is the small battery. The battery is a rather small 1650mAh unit, quite a bit smaller than the battery on the Galaxy SIII phone. The battery is rated for 350 shots. Not too impressive by DSLR standards, but 300-400 shots is pretty normal for point and shoots. However, this camera also uses GPS, has a data transmission capability that, as experience with camera phones has shown, can kill a battery pretty quickly. Also, that big touchscreen can be used for things other than just as a viewfinder for taking pictures. It can be used for editing the pictures that have just been taken, and image manipulation is a rather processor intensive task, which in turn, drains battery.

But this is not just a picture and video tool, but a fully fledged Android device. Using Google Maps to find your way to what you are shooting, checking in with Latitude /Foursquare/Facebook, and then killing some time with Angry Birds, or watching a movie or listening to some music, there are many ways this camera can drain this small battery very y quickly.

Samsung Galaxy Sharing

On the pure camera front. the Galaxy Camera is equipped with a 16mp sensor. All well and good, but don’t expect this to be replacing a DSLR any time soon. As is typical from a high megapixel, tiny sensor camera, viewing images at 100% is pretty dismal. However,checking things out on the LCD, things look good, and for smaller images and just sharing online, it seems great.

And this really is the whole point of this device. Its not a professional’s tool, its a social tool. Why choose it over a regular smartphone? Well, the zoom range and pop up flash is much, much better than any smartphone. And with that comes the opportunity to get more done than with a smartphone. It is a trade off between the money you spend and the money you can earn. There are people that do live blogging and live video streams using iPhones, and this device can aim right at that market segment. As a bonus, you don’t use up your phone battery, so you can still keep in contact with people.

But do what, exactly? These things don’t come cheap. Costing over $600, it comes in at about the same price point as a base level SLR. So the trade off for losing the image quality is the ability to post instagrammed pictures on facebook immediately? Not to mention the system is pretty much stuck in a WYSIWYG mode. There aren’t any more extensions like you would have with an SLR, no external flashes, no filter systems, nothing like that. Like I said, this is not a professional’s tool, although it can be used to provide some services in certain situations.

In my last article, I looked into the CameraMator system. On the surface, it does seem to offer similar functionality, but it means adding a $300 price tag on top of the cost of a DSLR and accessories. However, its not just about sharing pictures on FB when looking at business opportunities. With something like the Galaxy Camera, simple social media is where it stops. With a DSLR, you can add a immediate high quality printing service. Follow up prints, blown up pictures. RAW control. External lights. Professional tools simply allow you to do more, and do it faster.

So in summary, the big question is, why should you get one? Why indeed? The thing is, it depends as much on your personality as it does on your requirements. As it currently stands, I would have bought one, since it does suit my requirements, but, not at this price point. For me, its too much money for what I am getting, so this generation, I’ll give it a pass. However, it is a segment that I would keep a close eye on for future developments.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ihez2MKwphE

Introducing Fujifilm SL1000

In early January Fujifilm announced its groundbreaking SL1000 SLR type Bridge Camera. It has everything to look for in a camera and more. Might just be your dream camera.

It is a lightweight super zoom which zooms from 24mm to 1200 mm in 35mm jargon. It is 50x and is the longest on offer to the best of our knowledge. It is suitable for group photography like weddings, portraits as well as nature photography where a long lens is needed.

Fujifilm SL1000

Priced at an affordable $399 one should be able to purchase one in Sri Lanka for under Rs 60,000. It comes in metallic red as well as the more sober black. It has a 920.000 dot electronic view finder which is bright. Its 3 inches in size and has the ability to tilt.

For a dedicated RAW photographers, it offers RAW, JPEG as well as RAW+JPEG. The CMOS sensor is a respectable 16 megapixels. It also offers superb HD videos up to 1080/60fps

The camera has a built in pop of flash as well as a hot shoe for an external flash. It boasts battery life of 350 shots per charge. The ISO range is super : 64 to 12,800 with auto.

For more info visit the Fujifilm site here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=82MG_cEoXcc#!